This blog post is based on insights from Dr. Rajal‘s podcast interview hosted by Dr. Pal.
Have you ever stood in front of your bathroom mirror, staring at a shelf overflowing with serums, creams, and masks, wondering why your skin still isn’t “glowing”? You’re not alone. In a world where beauty influencers launch a new “must-have” product every week, it’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking that more products equal better skin. But what if the secret to a clear, healthy complexion isn’t adding more steps—it’s simplifying?
Dr. Pal recently sat down with Dr. Rajal, a practicing dermatologist from Surat, to cut through the noise. With years of experience treating everything from stubborn acne to chronic eczema, she has one clear message: consistency and simplicity beat complexity every single time. “People feel they have many concerns, so they try to correct everything at once with ten different products,” she explains. “But when you use too many products, you increase the chances of irritation and dilution. You’re not going to see results.”
Ready to stop the cycle of product overload and start a routine that actually works? Let’s dive into the science-backed basics that can transform your skin without draining your wallet or your patience.
The Most Common Skin Mistakes (And Why They Cost You)
Before we talk about what to do, let’s address what not to do. Dr. Rajal sees certain patterns repeatedly in her clinic that leave patients frustrated and their skin damaged.
The “Doctor Shopping” Trap
When dealing with chronic conditions like eczema or psoriasis, patience is key. However, many patients lose hope quickly. “They jump from one doctor to the other. Nobody is really explaining to them what the common triggers are, so they aren’t avoiding those triggers. Continuously, it’s coming back, and they lose faith in the medical system and just stop doing everything,” Dr. Rajal notes. This cycle of starting and stopping treatments prevents the skin from ever stabilizing.
The Self-Diagnosis Epidemic
Thanks to social media, terms like “fungal acne” are trending, but Dr. Rajal warns against self-diagnosis. “Fungal acne is not so easy to diagnose,” she stresses. “I would really suggest people to not self-diagnose fungal acne because then they are going ahead and just taking antifungals and applying these creams which are not going to be beneficial to them.”
For example, imagine you notice small, red bumps on your forehead after a sweaty gym session. You watch a TikTok video claiming all forehead bumps are fungal acne, so you buy an antifungal cream. Two weeks later, the bumps are worse because you actually have traditional acne caused by clogged pores, not yeast. A quick visit to a dermatologist could have saved you time, money, and skin damage.
Understanding Your Skin: Fungal Acne vs. Regular Acne
Not all bumps are created equal. Understanding the difference between these two conditions can change your entire treatment approach.
| Feature | Regular Acne (Acne Vulgaris) | Fungal Acne (Malassezia Folliculitis) |
| Appearance | Polymorphic (mixed lesions: blackheads, whiteheads, red papules, pustules) | Monomorphic (all lesions look similar: tiny, itchy bumps) |
| Location | Face, chest, back—often widespread | Mostly T-zone (forehead, around nose), chest |
| Cause | Clogged pores, bacteria (C. acnes), oil production | Yeast overgrowth (Malassezia) |
| Triggers | Hormones, stress, comedogenic products | Humid climate, prolonged antibiotic use, damaged skin barrier |
| Treatment | Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, retinoids | Antifungal medications (oral or topical) |
Key Takeaway: If your “acne” appeared suddenly after a round of antibiotics or during a hot, humid summer, and all the bumps look identical, skip the drugstore acne aisle and see a dermatologist.
The Perfect Minimalist Skincare Routine (Morning & Night)
Dr. Rajal’s philosophy is simple: “Correct the two most prominent things first. Don’t try to fix everything at once.” Here’s the streamlined routine she recommends for most people, especially those in their 20s and 30s.
Morning Routine: Protect and Prep
Step 1: The 30-Second Cleanse
If you have oily or acne-prone skin, start with a salicylic acid cleanser (1-2%). “Salicylic acid is lipophilic—it is oil-loving,” Dr. Rajal explains. “It gets concentrated in the oil-forming glands, helping reduce sebum production and dead skin buildup.”
Pro Technique: “People tend to wash their skin too hastily. Leaving it on for about 30 seconds can really help in maximizing the effects.” Wet your face first, apply the cleanser gently (don’t scrub!), leave it for 30 seconds, then rinse.
Step 2: Targeted Serum
Apply a thin layer of either:
- Niacinamide (5-10%): “If you’re a beginner, stick to 5%,” advises Dr. Rajal. “Higher is not always better—more than 10% can cause irritation without added benefits.”
- Vitamin C (5-10%): Only if you don’t have active acne or severe sensitivity.
Step 3: Sunscreen (Non-Negotiable)
Finish with a gel-based SPF 50 sunscreen. “In our Indian skin type, we are not trying to prevent fine lines and wrinkles with sunscreen—those aren’t very prominent anyways,” Dr. Rajal clarifies. “But uneven skin tone, dullness, and dark spots are. That is what we are trying to prevent.”
Evening Routine: Repair and Renew
Step 1: Cleanse Again
Remove the day’s dirt, pollution, and sunscreen with the same salicylic acid cleanser.
Step 2: The Power of Retinol
This is where the magic happens for long-term skin health. “Retinol is absolutely science-backed,” Dr. Rajal states. “It increases collagen synthesis, improves fine lines, and increases epidermal cell turnover, which helps shed dark spots faster.”
- Start with: 0.1% retinol
- How to use: Apply a pea-sized amount to the whole face after cleansing. Start with twice a week, gradually increasing to every other night as tolerated.
- Note: Prescription retinoids (like tretinoin) are stronger and work faster but require strict medical guidance to avoid severe irritation.
Step 3: Moisturize (Yes, Even Oily Skin!)
“People feel that if they have oily skin, they don’t need a moisturizer. They do,” insists Dr. Rajal. At night, after your serum or retinol, apply a moisturizer to repair the skin barrier and reduce inflammation. For oily skin, look for ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and zinc PCA.
Powerhouse Ingredients Explained
A. Salicylic Acid: The Oil Fighter
Unlike other acids, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate deep into your pores. “Even if you apply the same layer on the whole face, the absorption is better in areas where there are active oil glands,” says Dr. Rajal. This makes it ideal for T-zones and acne-prone areas.
B. Retinol: The Gold Standard
Think of retinol as a trainer for your skin cells. It teaches them to turnover faster, behave younger, and produce more collagen. “Start using retinol in your late 20s when you just start seeing early signs of aging,” suggests Dr. Rajal. “It’s not only for acne—it stimulates collagen production, improves texture, and helps with uneven skin tone.”
C. Vitamin C: Proceed with Caution
Despite the hype, “Vitamin C is not for everyone,” Dr. Rajal warns. “It can be a little irritating, and with our Indian skin type, anything that irritates can leave behind a dark spot.” If you have active acne, melasma, or eczema, correct those issues first before adding vitamin C for brightening.
Lifestyle is Medicine: Sleep, Stress, and Diet
Here’s a truth bomb: Your skincare routine is only 50% of the equation. Dr. Rajal emphasizes that lifestyle factors often outweigh even the most expensive serums.
A. The Cortisol Connection
“Stress aggravates any type of skin disorder—acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea,” Dr. Rajal explains. “When the stress hormone cortisol is increased, cortisol receptors present in the skin become deranged. You start losing more water from the surface of the skin, and if you are acne-prone, the sebaceous glands get stimulated and make more oil.”
For example, have you ever noticed a massive pimple appearing right before an important presentation or exam? That’s not bad luck—it’s cortisol triggering your sebocytes (oil glands) to go into overdrive.
B. Sleep Hygiene Matters
“Sleeping on time definitely has a positive impact on skin health,” says Dr. Rajal. She recommends:
- Keeping phones out of the bedroom (use an alarm clock instead)
- Not studying in bed (keep the bedroom for sleeping only)
- Practicing breathing techniques to wind down
C. Diet Over Supplements
Skip the expensive collagen powders. “I personally don’t feel collagen supplements work that much,” Dr. Rajal admits. “For getting that minuscule change, taking oral collagen supplements doesn’t make sense. Instead, focus on a high-protein diet and fresh fruits and vegetables rich in natural antioxidants.”
Hair Care Myths Busted
A. How Often Should You Wash?
“If you have an oily scalp, you can even wash every day. It does not cause hair loss,” Dr. Rajal confirms. “Keeping the scalp clean is important.” For most people, washing 2-3 times per week is ideal, but once a week is definitely not enough—especially for teenagers with active oil production.
B. The Truth About Dandruff
Dandruff isn’t just dry skin; it’s a genetic condition related to the type of oil your scalp produces. “The sebum produced in people with dandruff is higher in triglycerides and free fatty acids, which are more pro-inflammatory,” explains Dr. Rajal. Because this genetic makeup can’t be changed, dandruff requires long-term management, not a one-time cure. Use anti-dandruff shampoos (containing ketoconazole or salicylic acid) 2-3 times when flaring, then maintain with weekly use.
C. Helmet Hygiene
For those who ride two-wheelers, helmets are non-negotiable for safety, but they can exacerbate dandruff. “Clean the inside of your helmet regularly,” advises Dr. Rajal. “There are sprays available to clean the foam inside to remove dead skin buildup and oil.”
Home Remedies That Work (And Dangerous Ones to Avoid)
Dr. Rajal isn’t against all home remedies—she’s against misleading ones.
The Good
- Multani Mitti (Fuller’s Earth): Excellent for oily skin. Mix with rose water and glycerin, apply until 60-80% dry (don’t let it crack completely), then rinse and moisturize.
- Green Tea Bags: “Soak green tea bags, put them in the fridge, and use them on your eyes. It can help reduce morning puffiness due to the coolness and antioxidant properties,” says Dr. Rajal.
The Bad and The Ugly
Never apply these to your skin:
- Lemon or orange peels: “The particles are not uniform and can have ragged edges, causing micro-tears on the skin. Any irritation heals with a dark spot in our skin type.”
- Toothpaste on acne: “It has harsh carbonates and bicarbonates that can penetrate deeper and lead to worse burns on the skin.”
- Baking soda: Too alkaline and abrasive.
“Home remedies can moisturize and gently exfoliate, but they are not going to reduce your dark spots or melasma,” Dr. Rajal clarifies. “If you want to relax and rejuvenate, go ahead, but have realistic expectations.”
The Truth About Dark Circles and Dark Lips
A. Dark Circles: It’s Not Just About Sleep
“A lot of people ask me to name one eye cream that’s going to improve dark circles. There’s nothing like that,” Dr. Rajal states bluntly. Dark circles have multiple components:
- Thin skin showing blood vessels
- Increased melanin (actual darkening)
- Structural hollowing (tear troughs) creating shadows
“Creams can only help with the darkening component. If you have sunken eyes and hollowing, that cannot be changed with skincare—it requires fillers or skin boosters,” she explains. Green tea bags can help with puffiness, but for genetic dark circles, learn makeup techniques or accept them as part of your unique facial structure.
B. Dark Lips: Managing Expectations
“Our race cannot have pink lips—let’s accept that,” Dr. Rajal says honestly. “The amount of melanin produced in the lip is proportionate to the rest of the body.” While you can’t change your natural lip color, you can prevent further darkening by:
- Using lip balms with SPF (especially for lower lip darkening caused by sun exposure)
- Avoiding smoking
- Limiting hot beverages that can irritate lips
If lips have darkened over time (acquired darkening), treatments like lasers or lip blushing (tattooing) can help, but no cream will turn naturally pigmented lips pink.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Can I skip moisturizer if I have oily skin?
No. Even oily skin needs moisturization to repair the skin barrier and reduce inflammation. Choose a gel-based or lightweight moisturizer with ingredients like niacinamide or zinc PCA for nighttime use.
Q2: Is fungal acne contagious?
No, fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) is caused by yeast that naturally lives on everyone’s skin. It becomes problematic only when it overgrows due to humidity, antibiotics, or a damaged skin barrier.
Q3: How long should I wait to see results from a new skincare routine?
Give any new routine at least 6-8 weeks before judging results. Skin cell turnover takes time, and constantly switching products prevents your skin from adjusting and healing.
Q4: Do I need to wear sunscreen indoors?
If you have melasma, stubborn dark spots, or sit near windows, yes. For others in windowless rooms, you can skip it, but making it a daily habit ensures you never forget when you do go outside.
Q5: Are expensive skincare products always better?
Not necessarily. “Pharmaceutical grade products are usually stronger because they trust that it’s being dispensed by a physician who explains how to use it correctly,” Dr. Rajal notes. “Over-the-counter products have lower concentrations to avoid litigation, but a simple, consistent routine with affordable basics often outperforms expensive, complicated regimens.”
Conclusion
The path to healthy skin isn’t paved with ten-step routines and $200 serums. As Dr. Rajal wisely puts it: “Be consistent with a very simple skincare routine. You don’t need to fall for every new product that is launched. Understand your skin type, make a basic routine that fits your budget, and stick with it—only that is going to show you results in the long run.”
Remember, skincare is a medical practice, not magic. It requires patience, consistency, and realistic expectations. While you can’t change your genetic predisposition to dandruff or the structural anatomy causing your dark circles, you can achieve your healthiest skin by focusing on the fundamentals: cleanse correctly, protect from the sun, manage stress, sleep well, and when in doubt, consult a professional rather than Dr. Google.
What’s the one skincare habit you’re committed to simplifying this week?
Credit:
This blog post is based on insights from Dr. Rajal‘s podcast interview hosted by Dr. Pal. The original video provides detailed medical explanations on dermatological care and minimalist skincare practices.